First night in the Taunus Mountains
With the van equipped and fridge full, the next task was finding a good wild camping spot for the night. I had pre-marked interesting locations on Google Maps – an excellent way to plan motorhome trips, as it also gives you a clear picture of driving distances.
The first locations I'd picked were in the Taunus Mountains near Frankfurt. We headed for a road leading to the mountain top. The higher we drove, the foggier and more eerie the landscape became. The steep forested slopes and rain added an exciting edge to the atmosphere.
The silence was broken when the living area heater refused to cooperate. It kept going into fault mode. Eventually I traced the problem to the new GOK Caramatic gas bottle switcher. The valve had a safety feature that blocked gas flow when pressure dropped. The problem was solved when I realized I needed to push the valve button deeper with a key. We slept through the night peacefully with rain pattering on the roof.
Idstein – sushi and a fairytale old town
In the morning we continued to the charming town of Idstein in the Taunus Mountains. On the way we stopped at a hardware store to buy a second gas bottle – just in case. Idstein charmed us immediately: the old town was full of beautiful half-timbered houses, small alleys, and inviting bakeries with shelves overflowing with pastries. We ended up eating excellent sushi before continuing.
Rüdesheim am Rhein – wine and river views
Next we headed down from the mountains to the Rhine, to Rüdesheim am Rhein. This charming wine town is known for its historic Drosselgasse alley, local Riesling wines, and stunning river views.
At this time of year, Rüdesheim was pleasantly quiet. We walked through the town in a couple of hours and stopped at the riverside Brutzelhaus restaurant to sample local pastries.
In the evening we decided to find a new wild camping spot before dark. We first visited St. Hildegard's monastery, but it was closed. Eventually we found a peaceful picnic area on a hilltop in Geisenheim.
The Loreley legend and Rhine legends
The next morning the journey continued toward Loreley – the steep cliff along the Rhine. From Loreley's summit opens the famous view of the river, and the place is steeped in mythical atmosphere.
According to legend, the beautiful Loreley maiden sat on the cliff combing her golden hair and sang so enchantingly that passing ship crews forgot to steer and ran aground.
We left the van by the river and climbed steep stairs up to the viewpoint – about a 15-minute ascent. The Loreley statue was surprisingly small, but the views were all the more impressive: the river narrows at this exact point, and the current is so strong that ships had to use full power to get through.
Koblenz – city of rivers
Koblenz is a historic city where the Moselle and Rhine meet. It's known for the stunning Deutsches Eck viewpoint, old town, and fortresses.
We easily parked the van by the river near the old town and set off on foot to explore. We wandered the old town alleys, had delicious burgers and sampled local beer at Hans im Glück restaurant on the square.
Before leaving, we visited the famous Deutsches Eck where the Moselle and Rhine flow together, and continued toward new adventures.
