Leaving Koblenz, we first looked for a place to empty the motorhome's cassette toilet and fill the water tank. Along the way we found several great Wohnmobil Stellplätze – parking areas designed for motorhomes with all necessary services. These places are usually cheaper than campsites but typically don't have shared facilities like a kitchen or restroom.
We decided to drive to a small village where a Stellplatz offered a lovely view of the Rhine river. To our surprise, the place was packed with motorhomes and people were spending the evening outside in the sunshine. Since Stellplätze also allow you to just handle maintenance for a few euro coins, we emptied the tanks, filled the water, and decided to continue on. Using the Park4Night app, we quickly found a promising wild camping spot about 15 minutes' drive away, on the other side of the river.
Peace in a forest clearing
The wild camping spot turned out to be a large forest clearing along a quiet road. Nearby were beautiful houses with horses grazing in the sunshine. The decision to leave the packed Stellplatz was worth it – the atmosphere was peaceful and relaxed, and the sun shone pleasantly on the clearing.
Before dinner, we went for a short walk in the forest, where according to the map there was a waterfall. In reality, the 'waterfall' was just a stream with bricks piled up to direct the water – but the nature and tranquility made it worthwhile.
Back at the van, we opened a bottle of sparkling wine we'd received as a bonus and tested the roof tent for the first time. It was surprisingly spacious: more room than inside the van, and the bed comfortably fit two. The evening was crowned by passing horses and the light of the setting sun.
Medieval vibes in Den Bosch
In the morning we continued toward the Netherlands and 's-Hertogenbosch, more commonly known as Den Bosch. I had visited the city as an 18-year-old on a school trip and had warm memories of it.
Den Bosch is a charming Dutch city known for its medieval old town and as the hometown of painter Hieronymus Bosch. The city delights with its canals, cafés, and the famous Bossche Bol chocolate pastry.
Wild camping is prohibited in the Netherlands, so we stayed at Camperplaats Den Bosch near the center, just a 15-minute walk away.
In the evening we explored the city. This time Den Bosch wasn't quite as magical as I remembered – the canal tours were closed and it was pouring rain. But the restaurants were full of life, and despite the return trip in torrential rain, the city left a lively impression.
Kingdom of tulips – Keukenhof
The next morning we headed to Lisse and the world-famous Keukenhof tulip park. The park is open for only about two months each spring, yet over 1.4 million people visit annually.
We got in without queues, but the area was already crowded. Since we were there early in the season, most tulips hadn't bloomed yet. The greenhouses were at their best, but outside the scenery was lackluster. We didn't bother queuing for the windmill, and the crowds dampened the mood. Plus, tickets and parking cost nearly €60!
Instead, the areas around the park had far more spectacular tulip fields where you could walk in peace. I'd recommend renting a bicycle and taking the local tulip route – a more authentic and peaceful experience.
A night among tulip fields
Next we stayed at a private camping area by the Van Hage B.V. grower. The place was surrounded by fields that would surely have been in full bloom later in spring. A beautiful old windmill dominated the landscape.
The road in ran along a narrow sand path between a greenhouse and a canal, making the arrival exciting. In the evening we walked along the tulip fields admiring the flowers and sunset.
To Leiden – science and canals
After a good night's sleep, we continued to the city of Leiden. Leiden is a lively university city in South Holland, known for its canals, historic buildings, and lush gardens. It's also home to the oldest university in the Netherlands and the birthplace of many famous scientists, including Rembrandt.
We parked at Leiden train station, from which it was a short walk to the canal-lined center. The narrow colorful houses, peaceful atmosphere, and sunny weather made for a perfect end to our Dutch adventure. We had lunch by the canal and browsed a few small boutiques before continuing toward Germany.
