The morning dawned in Norway's magnificent landscapes after a peaceful night. The wind had calmed down, and after yesterday's long hike, we decided to have a lighter, “low maintenance” day: easily accessible sights by car and dinner at a restaurant in the evening.
Tourist Views and the Power of Waves
After breakfast, we first headed to Bergsbotn Utsiktsplattform. The viewing platform was quite neat, but a bit too touristy for our taste. The parking lot was also so small that stopping during peak season could be painful. We took a couple of quick photos and continued our journey.
Next, we stopped at Tungeneset, a coastal cliff where waves crashed powerfully against the rocks and dramatic mountains rose in the background. The scenery was stunning, but the strong wind and the torrential rain that soon hit forced us to move on.
Delicious Lunch at The Fat Cod
Along the way, we had noticed signs for a restaurant called The Fat Cod, and a quick Google search convinced us it would be the perfect lunch spot. The restaurant turned out to be idyllic – windows offered a direct view of the sea, the fish and chips were delicious, and a local beer ordered alongside perfectly complemented the meal. The fish was fresh, local cod. Pictures of local fish catches hung on the walls, the most impressive of which was a nearly 300-kilogram halibut.
Beach Stop and Expensive Shop
After lunch, we drove to Ersfjord beach. However, the beach didn't make a big impression, and the parking spaces left in the muddy sand looked like a good way to get stuck for the rest of the day. Fortunately, a new paved parking area was being built next to it, so access will be easier in the future.
For the evening, we wanted a peaceful wild camping spot and went to the village of Senjahopen to replenish our food supplies. The prices were outrageous – for example, 1.2 kilograms of chicken cost over 30 euros – but there were no other options. Luckily, Valtteri found a large sand and grass field at the starting point of the Knuten hiking trail, which served as our wild camping spot. The overnight stay cost only about ten euros.
The surprise of the place was the adjacent viewpoint with grills and a short, about 15-minute hike to the top of the nearby mountain. Since we had time and energy, we decided to go see the top. The ascent was slippery, but easy due to its brevity. From the top, stunning views of Segla and Hesten opened up. In the evening, we had a snack and went to sleep under the starry sky – surrounded by mountains and perfectly calm air.
My Birthday Under Rainbows
The next morning began magically: sunshine, fresh air, and several rainbows around the car. It was my birthday, and I wanted to make it memorable. In Norway, rainbows truly appeared constantly as rain and sun playfully interacted.
Salla had a remote work interview in the morning, so we set up the awning and sat in our camping chairs to enjoy the sun. After breakfast, we decided to head to the top of Hesten – however, we made a stop at Segla Grill & Pub for a birthday lunch. Jessica and I had delicious fish burgers, as Salla and Valtteri stayed in the car because they weren't hungry yet.
Ascent to Hesten – Rain, Mud, and Getting Lost
The original parking lot for the Hesten trail was closed, so we left the car a bit further away at the beach. The parking paid with EasyPark was expensive, almost 20 euros for four hours.
I chose Hesten instead of Segla, as it would offer better photos with Segla in the background. The ascent was challenging: a steep, muddy, and rocky path. The torrential rain that soon began made the trail even more slippery, and my mistake was not putting on my shell pants in time.
Jessica decided to skip the ascent right from the start, as the route looked too strenuous and the pains from the previous hike still lingered. Midway, the rain intensified even further, and Salla and Valtteri momentarily got lost on a side path that led to the plateau between Segla and Hesten. The route was indeed marked with blue stones and posts, but in the pouring rain, the markers were difficult to spot.
I reached the first higher plateau and waited in vain for Salla and Valtteri for almost 15 minutes. The wind picked up, and my wet clothes made me cold. Finally, I pulled my shell pants over my wet trousers and continued towards the summit. The path became even steeper, and at times I had to climb using rocks.
Eventually, I reached the summit – and as if on cue, the rain stopped and the sun peeked through. At the top, I got to enjoy the scenery almost alone, as there were hardly any tourists at this time of year. I waited at the summit for almost an hour before Salla and Valtteri finally arrived by the correct route. We had brownies and hot coffee there, while the wind blew coldly in our faces.
Return Journey and Stunning Scenery
For the descent, I took a detour through the plateau to make the journey a loop. Salla and Valtteri descended back by the route they came up. The peak between Segla and Hesten proved to be almost as impressive as Hesten itself – the sharp cliff edge and the sheer drop into the sea were dramatic.
The ascent with breaks took about 1 hour and 20 minutes; the entire trip, including breaks at the summit, took about four hours. On the way back, the weather cleared up and the sun shone beautifully. At the parking lot, Jessica was waiting for us, ready to continue our journey to the next campsite.
