Cueva de la Pileta
The next morning we headed toward one of Andalusia's most fascinating natural attractions – Cueva de la Pileta. This stalactite cave near Ronda hides prehistoric cave paintings up to 30,000 years old, like a window into the past. The road there wound along serpentine roads again, and every bend revealed new, breathtaking mountain views.
Admission was €15 per person, with visits only possible on guided tours. Luckily we arrived just in time for the next tour. Stepping into the cave, we were filled with deep respect – the paintings on the walls, whose age exceeded all understanding, told stories from a time before history. The guide led us through the darkness by the light of small flashlights, since flash and bright lights were forbidden to protect the site. The tour lasted about an hour and left a deep impression – if you visit Andalusia, this is an absolute must-see.
Toward Caminito Del Rey
The day's adventures were far from over. We set off driving toward a destination we had been looking forward to for a long time – Caminito del Rey, the iconic walkway through a gorge, known for its dizzying heights and dramatic scenery. Although Maps showed the drive as just under two hours, we decided to allow plenty of time. The route passed through stunning mountain landscapes, and every bend offered a new breathtaking view.
Along the way we stopped on a mountainside for lunch – a perfect break combining good food and scenery you could have enjoyed endlessly. Jessika had an important webinar scheduled for the day, so I searched the map for a place where I could fit in a small hike to pass the time.
Google Maps revealed a fascinating destination along the way – an old dam and an associated cave system, located in the middle of the mountains. The place seemed perfect for a little exploration, and as soon as I arrived at the parking lot, I knew I'd made the right choice. Majestic eagles circled around the mountaintop as if guarding this forgotten place. The view was straight out of a movie.
Presa de Montejaque
The hiking trail itself wasn't long, but it offered plenty of opportunities to stop and admire the scenery. I headed first toward the old dam, but on arriving disappointment struck – the route was closed by a gate. A moment later I noticed movement: a group of local youths had just come back from the dam and nimbly climbed over the gate. Although access was apparently only allowed with a guide, I couldn't resist the temptation. I had come this far, and I simply had to get on top of the dam.
I followed the youths' path and climbed past the gate. Then I walked along a narrow walkway until I reached the top of the dam – and the views took my breath away. I was completely alone, surrounded only by silence and endless mountain landscape. Eagles circled in the sky, and from the dried-up lake below came the bleating of sheep. The sun was slowly setting behind the mountains, bathing everything in a soft golden glow.
It was one of those moments when time stands still.
Cueva del Hundidero
After the moment at the top of the dam, I wanted to continue my exploration – this time beneath the dam, where the massive Cueva del Hundidero cave system lay. A steep but well-maintained path led down, with steps built into the worst spots. The atmosphere changed immediately as I descended: the open, sunny landscape above gave way to dense vegetation and a jungle-like green valley. The air was more humid, and the path suddenly felt narrower and more enclosed.
Along the way I saw surprisingly many animal bones – apparently the eagles had eaten their prey up above and dropped the remains down to the valley floor. It added a kind of wild mystique to the place, as if I'd stepped into a completely different world after only a few dozen minutes of walking.
The path forked in two: one route led under the dam, the other toward the massive cave entrance lower down. I decided to explore the cave first. Even before reaching the entrance, I noticed a deep well beside the path, its opening covered with a metal grate. It added even more mystery to this remote place – who had dug it, and what had been here before? A moment later I arrived, and what I saw was astonishing.
The cave entrance was enormous. Although I'd seen photos in advance, they didn't do it justice. The walls rose to great heights like an ancient gateway to the earth's depths. Bird calls echoed in the valley, and in my mind's eye I saw how at dusk the cave's bats would fly out through the opening to hunt.
There were warning signs at the entrance urging not to go further without a guide. The atmosphere was so mystical and at the same time slightly ominous that I decided this time to just admire the place from the entrance. It would definitely have been worth booking a guided tour if I had known in advance how impressive this place really was. I had also read that an underground river flowed in the depths of the cave – the thought stayed with me. Maybe one day I would return to explore it.
Next I went back to the junction and headed to the lower part of the dam. The path became rocky and required focus. Along the way I saw more small cave openings, like nature's hidden entrances to the underground.
When I arrived, I stood for a moment and let my imagination take over. What had it been like here when the dam was in full use and water flowed through it? Now silence reigned in its place, only the eagles circling above reminded me of the life still moving here.
Daylight began to fade, and I knew it was time to return to the van. I picked up the pace and at the same time felt how this place had made a lasting impression. Although I hadn't prepared for this hike in advance, it was one of the trip's most unforgettable experiences.
Night in the mountains
When I returned to the van, Jessika's webinar had already ended, so we could continue on without delay. We headed toward the reservoirs near Caminito del Rey, which seemed like the perfect place to camp for the night. Darkness had already fallen, and the atmosphere turned into a nighttime adventure.
We drove a narrow one-way road that wound steeply up the mountainside. Far below, the lake surface glittered in the moonlight, and the whole landscape felt almost unreal. The road seemed to go on forever, but just as we began to think of turning back, we found a perfect off-road spot along a quiet side street.
I had read that foxes were common in the area, scavenging for food at motorhomes. This knowledge made us step outside a bit more cautiously than usual, expecting a glimpse of an orange tail in the darkness. The night was quiet though – not a glimpse of a fox, only the hum of wind and distant water sounds kept us company.
Getting into the van and curling up under the blanket, I couldn't help smiling. Tomorrow morning was going to be amazing. In the darkness we couldn't yet fully see what landscape awaited us in the morning, but I already knew we'd wake up in the middle of truly beautiful mountain scenery.
